Tutorial by Adria Filion

Published July 21, 2007


Elegant by day, wild by night!


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1/8th block Glow-in-the-dark clay
1/16th block Translucent clay
2 shades of green ink, I'm using Lime and Rainforest Green from Pinata.
Copper paint

Pasta machine
Buffing wheel


Step 1

Begin by fully blending your translucent and glow in the dark leaving no visible streaks, this also conditions your clay completely.

Step 2

Divide clay equally in half and flatten slightly. Apply one drop of Rainforest Green to one piece, and one drop of Lime to the other.

Step 3

While still wet, begin blending ink into clay, you may want to use gloves for this, but as you can see from the other photos, I did not! Leave it a bit streaky.

Step 4

You should now have two different colored blobs of clay now. Pick up one and begin running it through your pasta machine. Start slow, I went from 1 [thickest], to 4 to 7. At 9 it stuck so I stopped at 7. Yours may differ, but get it as thin as possible. Now, do the same with the other blob. Lay these sheets out and let them cool down.

Step 5

After a few minutes you should be able to start tearing off small pieces of the sheets, I stack these together very randomly. I'm not using all the clay at once, just eyeballed enough to fill my mold. Any excess handling is going to lose some of the color variations.

Step 6

Begin pressing this stack into a ball, avoiding rolling in one direction as this will cause an obvious swirl. Roll back and forth, just enough to smooth the clay and get rid of any creases.

Step 7

Now choose your mold, something deep with good detail is best. I'm using a flexible celestial mold made by Amaco. These require very little mold release; I'm using a touch of water. To make the piece unique, I'm only using part of the mold and will later use tools to change the face slightly.

Step 8

Carefully pop your piece out and cure at 275 for 30 minutes (or more, depending on thickness). I cure mine on plain white paper and cover with an additional sheet of paper to prevent scorching. Oven thermometers are your friend! Remember no higher than 275.

Step 9

Once the piece is cooled it's time to antique! I'm using copper paint but burnt umber looks fantastic as well, and more realistic. Wipe off excess paint with damp paper towel.

Step 10

Begin wet sanding your piece. 400, 600 and 1000 seem to be enough if I'm using a good buffer. You may want to sand more or less. Buff the piece and admire the glow!

Variations/Final Thoughts

Here's a finished piece. Wire wrapped with copper (now you can see why I used the copper paint right?) and ready to wear! Duo-personality jewelry!

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